WGSN Insight: Bag Trends AW 2010/2011 (Part 1)
by WGSN posted on 18 May 2010
SatchelsThe satchel has been in and out of the fashion spotlight for a few seasons now and designers pushed it hard for winter 2010. We see this as THE key commercial bag shape for next season as the fervour for Mulberry's Alexa satchel hits fever pitch. While Mulberry's It bag is casual and of soft structure, the key look here is for schoolish satchels in boxy constructions featuring the traditional double-buckle fastening and long shoulder strap. Add a chain handle - as at Proenza Schouler and Jaeger London - for an urban touch and keep leather smooth and polished for formal style.RucksacksAs with the satchel, designers have toyed with the rucksack for a few seasons now, but its acceptance into the mainstream fashion consciousness has not yet impacted. But working as part of our Alpine Winter story, winter 2010 could be the big season for the humble backpack. While practicality is still the rucksack's USP, designers offered reimagined proportions - oversized at Westwood and Gaultier, businesslike grey flannel at Alexander Wang, and even a house makeover à la Chanel with signature tweed and diamond quilting.
Formal LadylikeThis is THE key bag shape to work with all those retro 50s/60s looks that will emerge for winter 2010. The formal ladylike handbag - characterised by its small size, single-strap hand-held design and vintage appeal, is the greatest contender with the oversized bags that have dominated the market for years. Key details are luxe leathers such as polished croc or glossy patent, gold lock closures and boxy constructions.
FramedAnother formal and vintage-inspired style set to impact next season is the framed bag. Seen here, they are all hand-held, with styles ranging from mid-sized Gladstones to the metal snap-clasp bags seen at Marni and Sonia Rykiel. While polished leather is important here also, there are more decorative fabrications on offer too - such as the furnishing brocade at Anna Sui, the lace appliqué at Dolce & Gabbana and the perforated leather at Marni.
TriangularA great new construction development here sees triangular bag shapes come to light. Shapes are wide at the bottom and taper to a point at the top. Take a cue from Bottega Veneta, Just Cavalli and Chanel, whose three different options illustrate how this new shape direction can work across formal, casual and party bags respectively.
Multi-sectionAs oversized bags and bottomless sacks take a high-fashion hiatus and handbags shrink to smaller ladylike sizes for winter, we see concertina sections of two or more - D&G offered five and a clip-on eyewear pouch - become important with practical detailing.